Trail Name:

Summary:
A sandy wash gives easy access to dramatic and exquisitely carved slot canyons, deep within the Utah canyonland wilderness.

From the parking area, cross the dirt road and the dry wash onto the clearly marked, sandy trail. Take heed of the warning sign here: “Flash floods can occur at any time of the year. Canyon is narrow with sheer walls. Know the latest weather forecast and canyon conditions. Emergency response is never rapid.” The deaths of 11 people in Antelope Canyon (near Page) in 1997 attests to the rapid and devastating effect of a flash flood in a slot canyon.

The trail leads through sagebrush to the right of the wash, with low sandst1 bluffs to each side. After just a few minutes, pass through a v-shaped gate and bear left, as directed by the sign, into the wash. Now simply follow the wide wash floor, a mixture of deep sand and gravel. Although level, there is no shade, which can make for very hot hiking during the warmer months.

The wash cuts through The Cockscomb, a double row of sandst1 fins that stretch north for miles, separating the Grand Staircase from the Kaiparowits Plateau. A mile from the trailhead, the low slopes flanking the wash are replaced by higher sandst1 walls and ahead rises an impressive cream-pink cliff. The gradient drops a little, the walls narrow, and you are into the canyon proper.

5 minutes later, the sheer water-carved canyon walls narrow significantly to a width of just 6 ft. Out of the sun, the temperature drops 20°F – wonderfully cool on a hot day. A minute later, the 50 ft high, rippled sandst1 walls narrow again to no more than 3 ft. But no so1r are you into this first slot then your way through is stopped by a sheer, 8 ft drop. Some boulders have been piled at the bottom, but do not rely on them to take your weight (when we hiked, some had been knocked over, making them difficult to reach).

If you choose to bypass the drop (as we did), backtrack out of the slot and on your left (the right side of the canyon) find a good place to scramble up the slickrock. Look for a faint sandy path, and you may also see some footprints. Pass to the right of a knoll and slide back down the very steep rock to the canyon floor, just past the first slot.

A couple of minutes later you are into another slot, but with much lower walls this time. Here there is another drop, about 6 ft this time and passable – agawithin there are boulders below but make sure they are stable before you trust your weight to them. And then you enter an extremely narrow, extremely high-walled slot. This 1 is a truly awesome sight. The sheer, water-sculptured red cliff walls, streaked with black and rising 100 ft (or more), narrow to just a couple of feet.

After a couple of minutes you emerge once more into the sun. The beautiful canyon is wider here, but still surrounded by big sandst1 walls. The sheer cliff on the right is marked by a huge alcove and next to it, on the base of the wall, is a collection of Indian petroglyphs. Just beyond is the confluence with Buckskin Gulch – 1.7 miles from the trailhead.

Turning left or right into rock-strewn Buckskin Gulch will quickly take you into more slots, and you can explore as much as you wish. Turning right, the Buckskin narrows run for over 11 miles to the confluence with the Paria River. Sun can barely filter through the tight, overhanging canyon walls to the rocky floor. You may encounter pools of water or deep mud – even after a long spell of dry weather expect to get your feet wet.

When you are ready to leave, retrace your steps through the Wire Pass slots. If you detoured around the first slot on the way in, venture in on the way back to see if you can scramble up the 8-ft dry fall. There is a 5-ft ledge to negotiate first, easily climbed using 2 large boulders beneath it. The 8-footer is trickier, but we eventually managed to clamber up (if you are tall and athletic you wouldn’t have too much trouble).

On the return to the trailhead along the open wash, and back out in bright sunlight, reflect on the beauty of this canyon country – green hills contrasting with red sandst1, and total peace and quiet.

Directions: On Hwy 89, travel 30 miles west from Page or 40 miles east from Kanab to the Paria Canyon ranger station (on the left of the highway as you head west). Stop here first for current weather and canyon conditions. Continue west on Hwy 89 for 5 miles.

Trailhead: Just before mile marker 26, where Hwy 89 bends right, turn left onto an unsigned dirt road (passable to all vehicles in dry weather). The Wire Pass parking area is on the right after 8.5 miles (ignore the turnoff to Buckskin Gulch Trailhead after 4.5 miles).

Length: 3.4 miles / 5.4 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: Negligible

Duration: 2 hours

Trail Condition: There is no trail (except for the first few minutes) – simply follow the wash. Some dry falls to negotiate and possible scrambling over steep slickrock.

Features: Dramatic slot canyons, high sandst1 cliffs, petroglyphs.

Climate: Best in spring and fall. Thunderstorms make flash floods a real danger in summer. Cold and icy in winter.

Accommodation: Motels in Kanab and Page.

Trail Notes: Rainfall many miles away can trigger a flash flood – always check conditions first and do not enter the slot canyons if there is any chance of rain. Watch out for rattlesnakes in Buckskin Gulch.

Summary:
A delightful walk through meadows and aspen groves to a tranquil lake backed by St1s Peak.

Begin by crossing a couple of bridges – and immediately you will be compelled to stop to admire the stunning mountains beyond Big Thompson River. The trail undulates gently as it passes a wide expanse of meadow, thick with grasses and wildflowers in summer, where you may well see elk.

At about 0.5 mile/0.8 km, there is a very gentle climb as you bear right, rounding a rocky knoll and leaving the meadow behind. Here the mountains come into view again. Head through a jumble of large rocks in open woods, and pass a couple of ponds (with frogs croaking and very much alive with insect life). A few minutes later, after a short climb up some rocks, more marshy ground comes into view on the left.

The trail, still gently undulating, heads into open pine forest and past more meadows and marshy ground. At 1.5 miles/2.4 km it becomes rockier, and the steeper climb to the lake begins, through stands of aspen interspersed with denser forest offering welcome shade on a hot day.

5 minutes before the lake, a side path heads left to Cub Creek campground. Continue straight on, following narrow Cub Creek, and emerge from the trees into a clearing, where the gradient levels. Pass a second turning to the campground and the trail divides: the path to the left leads directly to the eastern end of Cub Lake in a couple of minutes; the right fork, the main trail, climbs to the right of the lake along the north shore.

Make for the north shore for the better views. Here there are plenty of large boulders at the lake edge, encouraging you to sit and stay awhile. The hills around the lake are cloaked with pine, the shoreline formed by grasses and rocks. Ducks bob on the gently rippling water, crowded with yellow water lilies in summer. And to the west is St1s Peak, particularly beautiful early within the year with its thick covering of snow.

Directions: From Denver, take US 36 (off I-25 north) through Boulder to the town of Estes Park, just outside the Park’s east entrance. Continue on the 36 into the Park to the Bear Lake Rd junction, 1 mile beyond Beaver Meadows visitor center. (Note – Trail Ridge Rd, which runs across the Park connecting the west and east entrances, is only open from the end of May to mid-October, weather permitting).

Trailhead: Parking area on Cub Lake Rd, near Moraine Park campground. Follow Bear Lake Rd for 1 mile and turn right towards the campground. After 0.7 mile, turn left onto Cub Lake Rd and proceed for 1 mile to the trailhead parking.

Length: 4.6 miles / 7.4 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 540 ft / 165 m

Duration: 2.5 hours

Trail Condition: Clear and well maintained, easy to follow when snow-free.

Features: Meadows, lake, forest, wildlife.

Climate: Snow-free spring to late fall, but be prepared for changeable conditions at any time of year. Can be very hot in summer.

Accommodation: Moraine Park is the nearest campground, open all year for tents and RVs. Estes Park has plenty of accommodation, including motels and campgrounds with hook-ups.

Trail Notes: Beaver Meadows visitor center has topographic maps and trail information. If snowshoeing in winter, the route may be covered by drifts and hard to follow in places – check conditions with the visitor center.

Summary:
A climb to 3 mountain-framed lakes, ending at the rugged saddle beneath distinctive Hallett Peak.

From the top of the car park cross the bridge, turn left as directed by the sign, and bear right a few yards later at the fork. The wide, well-formed path climbs very gently through sweet-smelling pine forest, with occasional glimpses of mountains through the trees.

It is just 0.5 mile/0.8 km to the first lake, Nymph, surrounded by pine trees. The trail passes to the right of the lake to the north shore, from where there is a gorgeous view over the water – or ice if you are here early within the year – to the mountains, including Longs Peak (see main picture).

For the next 0.6 mile/1 km you continue climbing through open forest. There is a pleasant view of distant hills to the right, just before the trail turns sharp left, drops down briefly, then climbs again through open forest dotted with large rocks. Soon you are out within the open again, with superb mountain views to your left, particularly stunning in spring with the thick blanket of snow on the peaks.

As you enter a wide clearing with Hallett Peak directly ahead, you arrive at a trail junction. Continue ahead for Dream Lake, now no more than 5 minutes away. After climbing 430 ft/131 m from the trailhead, your reward is to sit on the rock at the lake’s edge, with Hallett Peak and Flattop Mountain forming an imposing backdrop. And just below the saddle of these mountains, 0.7 mile/1.1 km away, is your final destination: Emerald Lake.

The increasingly rocky trail passes to the right of Dream Lake along its north shore and, as it climbs, runs close to Tyndall Creek. Head through an area of forest and huge boulders, before a final short climb takes you to the edge of Emerald Lake, dominated by Hallett and Flattop. It is a stark, yet impressive, scene.

An alternative return
Descend to the trail junction at Dream Lake. Instead of retracing your steps on the path ahead to return to the trailhead, turn right for a longer route into the high country. It is 1 mile/1.6 km and a climb of 320 ft/98 m to Lake Haiyaha. From there, you can continue on a loop that accesses trails to Loch Vale and Mills Lake, before descending to Bear Lake via Alberta Falls and Glacier Gorge.

Off-season hiking
Because of the popularity of the Bear Lake area, you would make a very early start if hiking in summer. Before or after the closure of Trail Ridge Rd it is much quieter. We climbed up to Dream Lake in mid-May and, although still snow-covered, the trail was passable to hikers (poles and gaiters are useful). The reward was complete solitude. At this time of year the track remains completely obscured in most places, and there are no blazes, but you can usually rely on the footprints of others to show the way. A topographic map and compass would be carried, and be sure to check conditions with the visitor center before setting out.

Directions: From Denver, take US 36 (off I-25 north) through Boulder to the town of Estes Park, just outside the Park’s east entrance. Continue on the 36 into the Park to the Bear Lake Rd junction, 1 mile beyond Beaver Meadows visitor center. (Note – Trail Ridge Rd, which runs across the Park connecting the west and east entrances, is only open from the end of May to mid-October, weather permitting).

Trailhead: Bear Lake parking area, at the end of 9-mile Bear Lake Rd. Due to the popularity of this area, a shuttle bus runs in summer from a parking area 5 miles along Bear Lake Rd.

Length: 3.6 miles / 5.8 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 605 ft / 184 m

Duration: 2 hours

Trail Condition: Well maintained and easy to follow.

Features: Sub-alpine and alpine lakes, mountain views, forest.

Climate: Heavy snow in winter – the trail is snow-free only in summer and fall. Be prepared for changeable conditions at any time of year.

Accommodation: The nearest campgrounds for tents and RVs are Moraine Park and Glacier Basin, both off Bear Lake Rd. Estes Park has plenty of accommodation, including motels and campgrounds with hook-ups.

Trail Notes: Obtain topographic maps and trail information at Beaver Meadows visitor center. Be aware of altitude – it is over 10,000 ft at Emerald Lake. If snowshoeing in winter, check routes and conditions with the visitor center and do not go beyond Dream Lake due to the risk of avalanche.

Summary:
A definitive Rockies trail, encompassing a gushing waterfall, a pristine lake and magnificent mountain views.

In the next 5 minutes the wide, well-graded path crosses 2 log bridges as it heads through open forest, with glimpses of mountains through the trees. Climb gently through beautiful forest dotted with boulders, and soon the roar of the river greets your arrival at the rim of Glacier Gorge, with its beautifully colored rock walls.

Briefly move away from the rock-strewn Glacier Creek as you continue through forest, but you soon rejoin it and it is then only another minute or so of gentle climb to Alberta Falls, gushing forcefully between huge boulders, framed by pine and aspen.

The trail bears right, away from the falls, and as you climb the hillside along long switchbacks the mountains open up around you. In a few minutes the roar of the river hits you again, and soon comes into view, making its way down the hillside.

The trail again leads to the right, away from the river (the way is perfectly clear in summer, but it can be tricky to find the right route here when the ground is blanketed with snow). Round a small hill, then continue climbing, with a high rocky knoll to your right.

1.4 miles into the hike, you reach a trail junction. Take the right fork, signed to Mills Lake and Loch Vale. As you climb from the junction, the view ahead is filled by magnificent black mountains, covered with snow and scattered pine trees. The path levels, allowing you to fully enjoy the majestic scenery, mesmerized by the high mountains that form a long wall to your left.

At 1.9 miles, the trail splits 3 ways. Take the left fork, signed Mills Lake – there is now just 0.6 mile to go. Head into the forest and just beyond a horse tethering post cross a log bridge. Climb a little, following the brook below to your left for a time. After 10 minutes of undulating trail, and a bridge crossing over Glacier Creek, a final stiff climb takes you onto rock slabs just a short distance from the lake. Ahead is the magnificent spread of mountains that give the lake such a dramatic backdrop.

Continue across the level rock (the route marked by cairns in a couple of places) and soon you will be sitting on the north-east shore of the lake, marveling at its unparalleled setting, framed by conifers, huge granite boulders, and towering peaks.

Hiking options from Mills Lake

* Continue around the east shore of Mills Lake and south along Glacier Creek for 2.2 miles/3.5 km 1 way to Black Lake, an additional climb of 690 ft/210 m.

* Retrace your steps 0.6 mile to the 3-way trail junction. Here you can take a 1.9 mile/3 km unimproved trail that climbs 420 ft/128 m to Lake Haiyaha, from where you can descend on a loop back to Glacier Gorge Junction via Dream Lake.

* Alternatively, turn left at the 3-way junction for the trail to Loch Vale, which climbs to more spectacular lakes: The Loch in 0.8 mile/1.3 km 1 way and 380 ft/115 m climb, and Sky Pond a further 1.9 miles 1 way and 720 ft/220 m. This is another highly recommended route.

Off-season hiking
Because of the popularity of the Bear Lake area, you would make a very early start if hiking in summer. Before or after the closure of Trail Ridge Rd it is much quieter. We climbed up to Mills Lake in mid-May and, although still snow-covered, the trail was passable to hikers (poles and gaiters are useful). The reward was near complete solitude. At this time of year the track remains completely obscured in most places, and there are no blazes, but you can usually rely on the footprints of others to show the way (although these may not always be reliable and route-finding can occasionally be tricky). A topographic map and compass would be carried, and be sure to check conditions with the visitor center before setting out.

Directions: From Denver, take US 36 (off I-25 north) through Boulder to the town of Estes Park, just outside the Park’s east entrance. Continue on the 36 into the Park to the Bear Lake Rd junction, 1 mile beyond Beaver Meadows visitor center. (Note – Trail Ridge Rd, which runs across the Park connecting the west and east entrances, is only open from the end of May to mid-October, weather permitting).

Trailhead: Glacier Gorge Junction parking area, near the end of 9-mile Bear Lake Rd. Due to the popularity of this area, a shuttle bus runs in summer from a parking area 5 miles along Bear Lake Rd.

Length: 5 miles / 8.0 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 700 ft / 213 m

Duration: 2.5 hours

Trail Condition: Maintained and easy to follow when snow-free.

Features: Lake, mountains, cascades and streams, forest, gorge.

Climate: Heavy snow in winter – the trail is free of snow only in summer and fall. Be prepared for changeable conditions at any time of year.

Accommodation: The nearest campgrounds for tents and RVs are Moraine Park (open all year) and Glacier Basin, both off Bear Lake Rd. Estes Park has plenty of accommodation, including motels and campgrounds with hook-ups.

Trail Notes: Obtain topographic maps and trail information at Beaver Meadows visitor center. Be aware of altitude – Mills Lake is just below 10,000 ft. If snowshoeing in winter, check routes, conditions and avalanche risk with the visitor center.

Summary:
Explore the big basin at Haleakala’s summit, an eerie volcanic landscape of colorful cinder c1s.

Descend from the rim along the sand-like cinders of Sliding Sands Trail, passing the side trail to Ka Lu’u o ka O’o cinder c1 after 2 miles/3.2 km. There are several connecting trails from Sliding Sands to Halemau’u – you reach the first at about 3.8 miles/6 km. Bear left onto it and head north-east towards a large c1 called Ka Moa o Pele. [If you have the time and energy, you can choose to stay on Sliding Sands for a couple more miles to Kapalaoa Cabin, where you take a connecter to join Halemau'u to the right of a cinder c1 called Pu'u Naue. This route will increase the overall hike distance to 13.8 miles/22 km].

The connector trail climbs the flank of Ka Moa o Pele and turns east to a junction at Halali’i cinder c1. The shortest route to Halemau’u is to turn left here – but it is well worth taking the trail that encircles the c1 counter-clockwise for a closer look at some of the geological features on the crater floor. As you round the c1’s eastern flank, Pu’u Naue stands to your right. Soon you join Halemau’u Trail, and ahead you will see Kawilinau, the Bottomless Pit (actually 65 ft deep). Turn left, and as you pass the northern flank of Halali’i, the area of brightly colored cinders to your right is known as Pele’s Paint Pot. Ahead, the big red-faced c1 of Pu’u o Maui rises 1,000 ft from the crater floor.

Halemau’u Trail veers right and heads north-west towards Holua Cabin. In about 1 mile/1.6 km, take the short Silversword Loop that circles away from the main path through native silversword, 1 of the rarest plants within the world. If you happen to be here when they are in bloom, count your blessings – they can take up to 50 years to flower.

Back on the main trail and continuing north-west, Holua Cabin is only another mile away. It is a good place to stop and admire Haleakala’s majestic scenery: The cliffs directly to the west rising up to 2,000 ft; the big break within the crater wall of Ko’olau Gap and beyond to the east 8,907-ft Hanakauhi; and, to the south, Sliding Sands Trail winding its way towards the cinder c1s on the basin floor.

It is 3.8 miles/6 km from Holua to the trail-end on Crater Rd – and an ascent of over 1,000 ft. For the first mile, the trail winds north through a lava field and scrub to the base of the north-west wall. Now the switchbacks begin – a tough climb but not excessively steep. You will be tempted to stop often to admire the increasingly spectacular views, across a barren volcanic world of browns, grays and reds, and down Ko’olau Gap to the ocean.

Eventually you reach the rim. Pause to enjoy the view once more before moving away on the final mile of the trail, through scrub vegetation to the road.

Directions: From Kahului, take Hwy 36 to the 37 and 377 (Haleakala Hwy), which leads inland into Maui’s Upcountry region. About 0.5 mile beyond Kula Lodge, turn right onto the winding 378 (Haleakala Crater Rd) to the Park entrance. Beyond Park headquarters, Crater Rd switchbacks up the volcano (passing Halemau’u Trailhead after 3 miles) to Haleakala visitor center, just below the 10,023-ft summit.

Trailhead: Haleakala visitor center. The hike ends at Halemau’u Trailhead. You will need to arrange transport between these 2 points, or face a 6 mile and 1,750 ft slog up Crater Rd back to your car. One option is to park at Halemau’u and try to find some1 there to give you a lift up to the visitor center – we understand that hitchhiking on the road itself is not allowed.

Length: 11.7 miles / 18.7 km

Trail Type: One way

Elevation Change: -1,750 ft / -534 m
Down 2,800 ft/854 m, up 1,050 ft/320 m

Duration: 6.5 hours

Trail Condition: Clear and maintained (Sliding Sands consists of tiny, loose cinders).

Features: Stark volcanic basin, cinder c1s, rare silversword plants.

Climate: Changeable at the summit – be prepared for extremes of bitterly cold, wet and windy weather, and hot, intense sun.

Accommodation: Hosmer Grove campground, off Crater Rd just before Park HQ, has free tent and RV sites on a first-come, first-served basis (no permit required). Lodging close to the Park is limited – Kula Lodge is the nearest, and there are a few B&Bs around Kula and Pukalani.

Trail Notes: Further information available at Park HQ or Haleakala visitor center. Be aware of high altitude and take sunscreen and plenty of water (there is water along the trail at Holua Cabin but it must be treated). Keep to the trail to avoid damage to vegetation.

Summary:
Climb from a rugged volcanic shoreline through lush, tropical rainforest to 2 majestic waterfalls.

The lower part of the valley, however, can be visited on foot along the Pipiwai Trail, which climbs from the ocean through ‘Ohe’o Gulch to 2 majestic waterfalls. As a further incentive to head out on foot, the trail avoids the busiest part of the gorge – the popular pools and waterfalls of the lower stream below the highway bridge – and takes you upstream to more tranquil places. The higher you climb, the quieter it becomes.

Take the short footpath from the visitor center towards Kuloa Point Loop and turn left to the highway. Cross the road about 200 yards south of the bridge. The trail follows the stream as it climbs through ‘Ohe’o Gulch. The first 0.5 mile/0.8 km heads up gently sloping meadows to an overlook of 184-ft Makahiku Falls. In another 0.5 mile you enter woodland of mixed ohi’a and koa, typical of these lower elevations.

Cross the stream and continue for around 1 mile through lush tropical forests of introduced bamboo, mango and guava to the base of 400-ft Waimoku Falls. Beyond this waterfall, Kipahulu Valley is closed to entry and you must retrace your steps back to the ocean. On your return, there are lovely views of the Big Island from the meadows below Makahiku Falls.

Directions: From Kahului, take Hwy 36/360 to Hana, a slow, tortuous road along the stunning east coast. Beyond Hana, continue along the coast on Hwy 31 for around 7 miles to the parking area at Kipahulu.

Trailhead: Kipahulu visitor center.

Length: 4 miles / 6.4 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: 800 ft / 244 m

Duration: 2 hours

Trail Condition: Maintained, but can be muddy and slippery.

Features: Gorge, tropical forests, waterfalls, swimming holes, ocean views.

Climate: Subtropical – warm to hot temperatures, humid with rain at any time of year.

Accommodation: Kipahulu campground has free tent and RV sites on a first-come, first-served basis (no permit required, no water). Access to the trail is via the short coastal Kahakai Trail and Kuloa Point Loop. Outside the Park, the nearest accommodation is in Hana.

Trail Notes: Bring insect repellent, sunscreen and water -there is no drinking water in this area. Heed warnings of flash flooding after heavy rain.

Summary:
A half-day hike into the alien volcanic landscape of Haleakala’s giant summit depression.

To reach the start of the trail, backtrack along the visitor center access road for about 0.1 mile. The trail quickly approaches the edge of the Crater and the descent begins on long, easy switchbacks (easy going down that is – the sand-like cinders make the climb back to the trailhead more strenuous, made worse within the heat of mid-day). The open views of the vast, stark volcanic landscape are magnificent.

After around a mile, you can make a short detour to the left to the base of a cinder mound. Here you may find a little solitude away from the popular trail, a quiet place to sit and admire this unearthly place.

Continue into the Crater along Sliding Sands to a junction at 2 miles/3.2 km. Here you bear left onto a 0.5 mile/0.8 km side trail that dead-ends at the cinder c1 of Ka Lu’u o ka O’o (“the dip of the digging stick”). Retrace your steps to Sliding Sands Trail and bear right to start the long slog back up to the rim.

For a full-day hiking option, Sliding Sands Trail continues east (left) across the floor of the Crater, with several connections to Halemau’u Trail.

Directions: From Kahului, take Hwy 36 to the 37 and 377 (Haleakala Hwy), which leads inland into Maui’s Upcountry region. About 0.5 mile beyond Kula Lodge, turn right onto the winding 378 (Haleakala Crater Rd) to the Park entrance. Beyond Park headquarters, Crater Rd switch-backs up the volcano to Haleakala visitor center.

Trailhead: Haleakala visitor center (elevation 9,740 ft).

Length: 5 miles / 8.0 km

Trail Type: Out and back

Elevation Change: N/A

Duration: 3 hours

Trail Condition: Clear trail over tiny, loose cinders.

Features: Stark, colorful volcanic basin; cinder c1.

Climate: Changeable at the summit – be prepared for extremes of bitterly cold, wet and windy weather, and hot, intense sun.

Accommodation: Hosmer Grove campground, off Crater Rd just before Park HQ, has free tent and RV sites on a first-come, first-served basis (no permit required). Lodging close to the Park is limited – Kula Lodge is the nearest, and there are a few B&Bs around Kula and Pukalani.

Trail Notes: Further information available at Park HQ or Haleakala visitor center. Be aware of high altitude and take sunscreen and plenty of water. Keep to the trail to avoid damage to shallow-rooted plants.

Summary:
Dramatically contrasting scenery at the summit of Kilauea volcano.

From the visitor center, cross the road towards Volcano House Hotel and keep left at the fork for the short distance to Crater Rim Trail. Keeping left, follow this trail for 1 mile/1.6 km, which takes you along the north-east rim of Kilauea Caldera above a cliff called Waldron Ledge. This section of Crater Rim Trail, which makes an 11.6-mile circuit of the volcano’s summit, offers excellent views into the caldera.

At the junction, Crater Rim Trail heads east to Kilauea Iki Overlook, but you turn sharp right towards the caldera. Ignore the trail branching off to the left after a few minutes, a short connector to the rim of Kilauea Iki Crater. Continue ahead to join forested Byron Ledge Trail after a few more minutes.

Turn right, descend from the ledge, and bear north for the 0.5 mile/0.8 km to the junction with Halema’uma’u Trail. Keep right to continue north, and begwithin the climb out of the caldera.

After 0.4 miles/0.6 km, turn left to complete the climb on Iliahi (Sandalwood) Trail. On this 0.4-mile stretch to the north rim, there are more great caldera views through the green rainforest. You may even spot some sandalwood trees along the way, although only a few remain.

At the top, you connect with Crater Rim Trail – consider extending the hike by a mile or so, as the Rim Trail to the west (left) of here is another interesting section, passing steam vents above aptly named Steaming Bluff.

It is all easy walking from now on, and no more than 1 mile/1.6 km to the visitor center. To return via Sulphur Banks, cross the Rim Trail and Crater Rim Drive a couple of minutes later. The final part of the hike is a real contrast to the dramatic caldera views and beautiful rainforest that has come before. You may well smell the banks before you see the steam or bright yellow mineral deposits – this is 1 of the few places on Kilauea where the vents give off the foul, rotten-egg smell of hydrogen sulphide.

Directions: The Park entrance station is just off Hwy 11, 95 miles south-east of Kona and 30 miles south-west of Hilo. Keep right onto Crater Rim Drive for Kilauea visitor center in 0.3 mile.

Trailhead: Visitor center.

Length: 3.75 miles / 6.0 km

Trail Type: Loop

Elevation Change: 400 ft / 122 m

Duration: 2 hours

Trail Condition: Well maintained.

Features: Caldera views, lava, rainforest, steam vents.

Climate: Changeable, with temperatures around 60 F at Kilauea’s summit. It is often overcast and rainy.

Accommodation: Volcano House Hotel (tel. 808 967-7321) is on the caldera rim opposite the visitor center. Two free drive-in campgrounds, first-come, first-served – the most convenient is Namakani Paio, clearly signed off Hwy 11, 3 miles west of the entrance station. The village of Volcano, 1 mile east of the Park on Hwy 11, has lodges, cottages and B&Bs.

Trail Notes: Obtain maps and information on trails and current volcanic activity from the visitor center (tel. 808 985-6000). Be aware of volcanic fumes at Sulphur Banks.

Summary:
Cross the floor of ‘Little Kilauea’ Crater, the site of Hawaii’s most furious eruption.

The trail winds down the wall of Kilauea Iki and heads west across the eerie crater floor, covered by hardened lava flows and surrounded by cliffs. After passing the vent of the 1959 eruption, the trail climbs out of the crater and reaches a junction shortly after, at the 2.4 mile/3.9 km mark.

Left is the very short connecting trail to Byron Ledge which, joined with Halema’uma’u Trail, forms a larger circuit through the main caldera. Byron Ledge also accesses the Waldron Ledge loop, which can be combined with Kilauea Iki for an excellent loop trail of 6 miles/9.6 km.

To continue on the 4-mile Kilauea Iki Trail, turn right at the junction, keep right at the next, and join Crater Rim Trail in 0.4 mile/0.6 km.

Follow the rim east (right) for 0.7 mile/1.1 km to Kilauea Iki Overlook, enjoying views into the crater from breaks within the beautiful rainforest. From the overlook, the trail continues along the rim through a forest of tree ferns for a further 0.5 mile/0.8 km to your starting point.

Before leaving the parking area, be sure to cross the road and walk the 0.3 mile/0.5 km loop trail through a lush jungle of ohi’a trees and giant ferns to Thurston Lava Tube. It is best to time this for first thing within the morning or late afternoon, as it gets very busy during the middle of the day.

Directions: The Park entrance station is just off Hwy 11, 95 miles south-east of Kona and 30 miles south-west of Hilo. Keep right onto Crater Rim Drive for Kilauea visitor center in 0.3 mile.

Trailhead: Thurston Lava Tube parking area on Crater Rim Drive. Alternative access at Kilauea Iki Overlook.

Length: 4 miles / 6.4 km

Trail Type: Loop

Elevation Change: 400 ft / 122 m

Duration: 2 hours

Trail Condition: Well maintained.

Features: Crater views, hardened lava flows, cliffs, native forest.

Climate: Changeable, with temperatures around 60 F at Kilauea’s summit. It is often overcast and rainy.

Accommodation: Volcano House Hotel (tel. 808 967-7321) is on the caldera rim opposite the visitor center. Two free drive-in campgrounds, first-come, first-served – the most convenient is Namakani Paio, clearly signed off Hwy 11, 3 miles west of the entrance station. The village of Volcano, 1 mile east of the Park on Hwy 11, has lodges, cottages and B&Bs.

Trail Notes: Obtain maps and information on trails and current volcanic activity from the visitor center (tel. 808 985-6000). Carry water and keep to the trail to avoid hidden cracks and thin lava crust.

Summary:
Cross the floor of Kilauea Caldera and peer into the depths of steaming Halema’uma’u Crater, home of Pele the fire goddess.

Many of the Kilauea Caldera trails interconnect, giving lots of different loop options. This circuit leads across the center of the caldera though old lava flows, with a short spur to the edge of steaming Halema’uma’u Crater.

From the visitor center, take the short footpath towards Volcano Art Center, cross Crater Rim Drive and quickly join Crater Rim Trail to the right of Volcano House Hotel. Turn right for Halema’uma’u Trail, which soon branches off the Rim Trail. Keep left at the junction with Sandalwood Trail a few minutes later.

The trail heads down into the caldera through rainforest, reaching the junction with Byron Ledge Trail and the start of the loop proper in 0.4 mile/0.6 km. Taking it counter-clockwise, keep right on Halema’uma’u Trail.

The arid expanse of the caldera and the black pahoehoe lava that covers it is a real contrast to the vegetation on the rim. The trail heads through the center of the big caldera, past lava flows from eruptions as recent as 1982.

In 1.8 miles/2.9 km, you reach the junction with Byron Ledge. The loop continues left along this trail, but first continue on Halema’uma’u for another 0.4 mile, to the edge of the crater for which the trail is named.

Once a lake of red-hot molten lava, in 1924 the lava drained away from Halema’uma’u Crater, but sulfurous fumes continue to rise from the surface. The crater is home to Pele, the fire goddess. She is still revered by many native Hawaiians, and you may well see offerings of flowers and fruit at the crater’s edge. Expect there to be plenty of people here – Halema’uma’u parking area on Crater Rim Drive is just 0.2 mile away.

Backtrack to the trail junction and turn right onto Byron Ledge Trail. Now heading east across the caldera floor, you approach the forested ledge in about 1.2 miles/1.9 km. Climb up and follow the ledge northwards for 1 mile/1.6 km. To your left lies the expanse of Kilauea Caldera; to your right the cinder c1 of Pu’u Pua’i and the crater of Kilauea Iki.

Three trails branch off to the right as you walk along the ledge. The final 2, 0.8 and 1 mile along respectively, are short connections to Kilauea Iki and the north-east rim of the caldera on Waldron Ledge. They offer an alternative return route.

Staying on Byron Ledge Trail, bear left and descend from the ledge, then continue northwards. The loop is now almost completed. In around 10 minutes, rejoin Halema’uma’u Trail and keep right to climb back up to the rim the same way that you descended. Near the top, rather than heading straight for the visitor center, you may choose to turn left and return via the Sandalwood and Sulphur Banks Trails. This will add 1 mile to the overall distance.

Directions: The Park entrance station is just off Hwy 11, 95 miles south-east of Kona and 30 miles south-west of Hilo. Keep right onto Crater Rim Drive for Kilauea visitor center in 0.3 mile.

Trailhead: Visitor center. Alternative access from Halema’uma’u parking area on Crater Rim Drive (reduces overall trail length by 1 mile).

Length: 6.6 miles / 10.6 km

Trail Type: Loop

Elevation Change: 400 ft / 122 m
Total ascent approx 800 ft/244 m.

Duration: 3.5 hours

Trail Condition: Well maintained.

Features: Crater, cinder c1, steaming lava fields, native forest.

Climate: Changeable, with temperatures around 60 F at Kilauea’s summit. It is often overcast and rainy.

Accommodation: Volcano House Hotel (tel. 808 967-7321) is on the caldera rim opposite the visitor center. Two free drive-in campgrounds, first-come, first-served – the most convenient is Namakani Paio, clearly signed off Hwy 11, 3 miles west of the entrance station. The village of Volcano, 1 mile east of the Park on Hwy 11, has lodges, cottages and B&Bs.

Trail Notes: Obtain maps and information on trails and current volcanic activity from the visitor center (tel. 808 985-6000). Take water and sunscreen – there is no shade on the lava fields. Keep to the trail to avoid hidden cracks and thin lava crust and be aware of volcanic fumes at Halema’uma’u Crater.